White Embriodery 4...

Rose scallops (figs. 184 and 185).— These are, large button-holed scallops with indented edges, in the one case, rounded at the top and sharply pointed at the join; in the other, pointed at the top, and joined at rock bottom by a straight bar of button-holing.


Fig. 184. Rounded rose scallops.

Fig. 185. Pointed rose scallops

Eyelet holes (figs. 186, 187, 188).— Outline the eyelet holes very carefully first by running a thread round them, then cut out the enclosed stuff with a sharp pair of finely pointed scissors, and edge the opening with plain overcasting stitches, worked from left to right.

Fig. 186. Overcast eyelet holes.

When you have an extended row of eyelet holes to form, outline the upper and lower halves alternately, first on one side then on the opposite , using two threads, and then overcast them in the same way. The double crossing of the working threads between the eyelet holes makes them much stronger, than if each hole were finished off separately, and therefore the thread passed underneath from one to the other.


Fig. 187. Button-holed shaded eyelet holes.

Fig. 188. Shaded eyelet holes half overcast, half button-holed.

The lower halves of shaded eyelet holes, (see figs. 187 and 188), are worked with very short stitches, and therefore the upper halves with long ones; they'll be edged entirely, either with button-holing or overcasting, or half with one and half with the other.

Six leaves in raised stitch (fig. 189).—Raised stitch is chiefly used for working flowers, leaves, petals, dots, initials and monograms. After tracing the outline of the design, fill in the centers with a padding of long, close stitches for which you can again take Filament à reprise D.M.C and then, beginning always at the purpose of the leaf, see letter A, cover it with flat, perfectly even stitches, worked from right-to-left. B illustrates a leaf, divided through the middle by a line of overcastting; C, one with a corded vein; D, a divided leaf worked in sloping satin stitch; E, a leaf, with a corded vein and framed in sloping satin stitch; F, a leaf worked half in stitch , half in back-stitch and straight stem stitch.


Fig. 189. Six leaves in raised satin stitch.

Leaves and flowers of all similes, can be executed in any of these stitches, and in different combinations of the same.

Six ways of making dots (fig. 190).— Dots, once they are well made, are exceedingly effective in white embroidery, particularly if they're worked during a sort of stitches. Dot A is worked in raised stitch; B, in raised satin stitch, framed in back stitch; C, in raised satin stitch, framed in twisted knot stitch; D is composed of several post stitches of various lengths, set during a frame of stem stitches; E is worked in back-stitch, and F consists of a little eyelet hole, with a corded setting, which forms the center.

Fig. 190. Six ways of making dots.

Venetian embroidery (fig. 191).— Scallops, worked in very alto relieve, called Venetian embroidery, are an imitation on stuff of Venetian lace.

Real Venetian point is entirely needle-made; within the embroidered imitations of it, the things takes the place of the needle-made lace foundation. To make it more like the original however, the ground is seldom left plain, but is covered with fancy stitches, such as are represent in the illustration, or with one or other of the damask stitches in figs. 146 to 170. The button-hole bars could also be made with or without picots. A full description of the latter are going to be found within the chapters on net embroidery, and Irish lace. The space to be buttonholed, must be padded, for thereon depends the roundness of the embroidery. For this purpose take 6 or 8 threads of Cotton à reprise D.M.C No. 25, and fasten them down on to the prototype with loose stitches, laying on extra threads, and cutting them gradually away, according to the width the line is to be. The stuff underneath the bars should only be cut away when the embroidery is sort of finished.