The Islamic
world
Further
information: Islamic embroidery
Embroidery was a
essential art within the Medieval Islamic world. The 17th-century Turkish
traveler Elisa Caleb called it the "craft of the 2 hands". Because
embroidery was a sign of high social station in Muslim societies, it became
widely popular. In cities like Damascus, Cairo and Istanbul, embroidery was
visible on handkerchiefs, uniforms, flags, calligraphy, shoes, robes, tunics,
horse trappings, slippers, sheaths, pouches, covers, and even on leather belts.
Craftsmen embroidered items with gold and silver thread. Embroidery cottage
industries, some employing over 800 people, grew to present-day these things .
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In the 16th
century, within the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, his chronicler Abu
al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote within the famous Ain-i-Akbari: "His majesty
(Akbar) pays much attention to various stuffs; hence Irani, Ottoman, and
Mongolian articles of carry and tear are in much abundance especially textiles
embroidered in the patterns of Nakshi, Saadi, Chikhan, Ari, Zardozi, Wastli,
Gota and Kohra. The majestic workshops within the towns of Lahore, Agra,
Fatehpur and Ahmedabad end up many masterpieces of workmanship in fabrics, and
therefore the figures and patterns, knots and sort of fashions which now
prevail astonish even the foremost experienced travelers. Taste for fine
material has since become general, and consequently the drapery of embroidered
fabrics used at feasts surpasses every description.
Automation
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The development
of machine embroidery and its production happened piecemeal during the economic
Revolution. The first embroidery machine was the hand embroidery machine,
invented in France in 1832 by Jose Hellman. The next evolutionary step was the
stiffly. The latter borrowed from the narrow piece machine and therefore the
Jacquard loom to completely automate its operation. The manufacture of
machine-made embroideries in St. Galen in eastern Switzerland flourished in the
latter half of the 19th century. Both St. Gallon, Switzerland and Platen,
Germany were important centers for machine embroidery and embroidery machine
development. Many Swiss and Germans immigrated to Hudson county, New Jersey
within the early twentieth century and developed a machine embroidery industry
there. Stiffly machines have continued to evolve and are still used for
industrial scale embroidery.
Classification
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Embroidery are
often classified fixed with what degree the planning takes under consideration
the character of the bottom material and by the connection of stitch placement
to the framework. The main categories are free or surface embroidery, counted
embroidery, and needlepoint or canvas work.
In free or
surface embroidery, designs are applied without reference to the weave of the
underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese
embroidery.
Counted-thread
embroidery patterns are created by making stitches over a predetermined number
of threads within the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more
easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric like embroidery canvas, aid,
or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include cross-stitch and
a few sorts of black work embroidery.
While almost
like counted thread with regard to technique, in canvas work or needlepoint,
threads are stitched through a cloth mesh to make a dense pattern that
completely covers the inspiration fabric. Examples of canvas work include
barbell and Berlin wool work.
Embroidery also
can be classified by the similarity of appearance. In drawn thread work and cut
work, the inspiration fabric is deformed or cut away to make holes that are
then embellished with embroidery, often with thread within the same color as
the foundation fabric. When created with white thread on white linen or cotton,
this work is collectively mentioned as white work. However, white work can
either be counted or free. Hard anger embroidery may be a counted embroidery
and therefore the designs are often geometric. Conversely, styles like Bordered
are almost like free embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that aren't
hooked in to the weave of the material.
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