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How to Do Kasuti Embroidery

Everything You Need to Know About Kasuti Embroidery



Musical embroidery is a type of hand embroidery originating from Karnataka, India. Beautiful motifs use only a few simple stitches, but the results create stunning, detailed borders, and intricate designs.

Experienced stickers will probably recognize that embroidery embroidery is a fold-thread technology that is closely related to black work. It's like some Russian embroidery. But the method is unique for the costume! And makes the opposite!


History
The Kasuti embroidery is believed to have originated in Karnataka, India about 5 years ago, though some sources say it is only documented from the 17th century. It has long been dealing with clothing and is especially known on black wedding sarees and is a skill that every woman in the area knew.


Stitches
This embroidery is designed to look the same on the front and back of the work which means you should not use a knot to start or end your sewing. However, if you have not created a retro piece, what you are learning makes you comfortable.


Four types of stitches are used in Kasuti:

 

Gavanti stitch - Worked like double running or holbein stitch
Murgi stitch - Worked like gavanti stitch, but creating a zig zag
Negi stitch - Worked like a darning stitch, in long and short patterns
Menthi stitch - Worked like a standard cross stitch


Kasuti Embroidery Patterns


There are many common musk embroidery patterns, although there are many common themes or motifs. Padma flowers (center) are widely used, such as other flowers, animals, shells and many borders. Many were inspired by temples in the Karnataka region.

Like Black Work or other calculated threading techniques, Kasuti Embroidered designs work on the grid. Although the patterns described above are not depicted on the grid, they are more like a chart and will work on Aida or other clothing.

Download Kasuti Pattern JPG and print it for reference or to transfer designs. Use motifs individually or repeat elements.

Using the Patterns on Different Fabrics
If you are using aida cloth, each straight line in the pattern represents a square.
If you use an even knit fabric, decide how many threads to count for each straight stitch. You can easily adjust the pattern size by changing the number of threads you count for each stitch.

If you want to use regular linen or quilting cotton, you can use the waste canvas to create a grid on the fabric or treat it as a type of embroidery, and mark the design directly on the fabric and sew it on.
Use the motifs individually or repeat the elements.


How to Work Kasuti Embroidery


The embroidery patterns used by Gavanti and the hen stitch are usually seen to work with the back stitch but do not create the same look on the front and back.

To create designs with a double-moving stitch style, the lines are made with multiple passes. On a single pass of stitch, each stitch usually moves in the same direction.

In the above sample, the stitch begins at the center and forms a diagonal line of horizontal stitches (hen). Behind the embroidery, the stitches are all vertical. Following the diagonal line is a row of standard running stitches that will eventually be filled with more running stitches (Gavanti).

Finding the best way to go is usually the biggest challenge in Kasuti. Just keep in mind that your stitches should never jump in the back sights, always reflecting what appears in the front.

Traveling the Stitching Line


After working one row of stitches (horizontal in this case), come back and stitch the other side. When creating lines of boxes with hen stitches, the second line of horizontal stitches is the easiest to make. This is the second pass along the stitching line.

Complete the Vertical Murgi Stitches



Complete the embroidery line with two more sewing passes, this time with a vertical hen stitch.

Even if you go back and forth a few times, the stitching path should take you to where you started at the end. Following the design of returning to where you started can be complicated at times, but through practice you will find a way.


The Reverse Side of Kasuti


Keep in mind that the back of the design should look like the front when it is often helpful to look for the best path. And when needed, you can return with a stitch a second time so that it follows the stitch correctly.

Tips for Working on Evenweave


Even when working in weave fabric, make sure your knit is exactly the same.

In the above sample, each stitch was counted on top of five threads on each side. Even if true, it results in symmetry sewing. Instead, the design is a bit squashed because of the fabric weave.

Of course, embroidery is still beautiful, so keep in mind that making a beautiful stitch of your choice is more important than perfection.





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